Southern Safari 2

We were up with the birds this morning. With coffee packed in our rucksack, we made our way to a lookout point, on top of the highest dune, to watch the sun rise.

From there, we went on a long hike across the red sand dunes of the Kalahari. Walking in that soft sand was quite a workout!

We came across this clutch of ostrich eggs on our walk. Where, I wondered, were the would-be parents? They certainly wouldn’t take kindly to interlopers. I imagined having to beat a hasty retreat with an irate pair of breeding ostriches on our heels. We would have had more than egg on our faces, for sure! However, given the random configuration of the eggs, we reckoned that they had probably been abandoned. We left unscathed. 🙂

There is a 4×4 route on the property so three guesses what we’re doing when it cools down?

I made the foolish error of leaving my slops outside the caravan last night…

We had a beautiful drive to Mata Mata today. The border crossing was quick and easy and we are now at The Kalahari Game Lodge – another gorgeous stop. The campsites are private, set far apart from each other and have plenty of shade. Looking forward to the sunset – and the night sky.

Our timing was a bit out today. On our way to Nossob, we saw a cheetah lying somewhat out of breath under a tree about 50m from the road. We heard from a fellow traveller that we had just missed an abortive hunt. Damn! Later, at Melkvlei picnic site, we ran into our physio, Michelle Swart, who’d been driving a little way behind us. She told us that they’d seen the same cheetah calling her cubs who had then come gamboling over the dune to join her. This must’ve happened just after we’d left.

We felt cheetahed.

Breakfast at Melkvlei: huevos rancheros

Apart from the cheetahs (2 sightings), we saw an enormous Cape cobra winding across the road. As we approached, it reared up and spread its hood to show it meant business. It was quite an intimidating experience. Later in the day when we were both feeling drowsy from the heat, we spotted an African wild cat who had the right idea. It was taking a siesta in the nook of a tree. It reminded me so much of a domestic cat that I attempted to strike up a conversation with it, much like I do with our pet cats back home. I was met with a look of disdain, both from the cat and my husband.

As I type, I can hear the jackals calling as the smells from the camp fires draw them closer. To me, this is the quintessential sound of the bush.

2 April

The day started on a painful note – a loud howl of pain, to be precise. Anton dropped a heavy box of wine on his toe. The good news is that no bottles broke. The same cannot be said about his toenail, however. Eina.

This little piggy had a long soak in the cold swimming pool.

The road to The Tankwa Karoo National Park has sharp teeth!

Despite the precautionary measure of deflating all the tyres…we still got a puncture. Luckily, my co-traveller is a mechanical whizz, and we were on our way again in two shakes of a lamb’s tail. 😉

During our New Zealand road trip, the first thing Marion, Em and I would do on our arrival at a new campsite was to check out the ablution facilities. They ranged from pretty basic to a glamper’s fantasy. Great was our excitement – especially given the sub-zero temperature outside- when the Milford Sound campsite provided private bathrooms with heated towel rails!

What has this got to do with this road trip, you may be wondering. Well, I certainly was not expecting the glamping experience that awaited me at the Tankwa National Park. It was my birthday surprise from Anton Take a look:

Bloody lookshury! Our own private bathroom and scullery!

3 April

54 years old today!

The first dim glow of daybreak woke me, and I watched the looming mountain change colour through my bedside ‘window’. There was a soft, cool breeze on my face, and utter silence – except for the occasional scratch and cluck from the resident covey of Cape spurfowl in the thorny brush surrounding our site. I couldn’t have asked for a better way to enter my 55th year on this planet. I dozed off and was awoken by the shrill whistle of the camp kettle. Coffee was on its way!

Birthday dinner: Moroccan lamb shank potjie. Lipleklekker – Jan Braai kan sy ou skoene agterna gooi.

April 4

Early start today: up at 4.30. We have a long drive ahead and must get to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park before the gates close as well as fitting in a provisions stop in Upington.

So far, the caravaning experience has gone pretty smoothly for greenhorns like us. We have made a few rookie mistakes like forgetting to fill the water tank before we left Cape Town, and almost driving off with our tent roof still raised. No doubt there will be more.