Loopy de Loop

Ngoma border post was a quiet and easy entry into Botswana. This was the beginning of our 2000km loop through Botswana and then back through Namibia to Nambwa again. Why, for heaven’s sake , would we do this? The short answer is- to take up the opportunity of what promises to be a unique experience: joining San master trackers in the Nyae Nyae Conservancy in the Otjozondjupa region, Namibia. This has been made possible by an invitation from Clive Thompson, Anton’s ex-colleague, with whom we did a memorable guided walk in Pafuri two years ago.

After an extremely sandy and hair-raising drive, with the trauma of the Nambwa extrication fresh in my memory, we arrived with great relief at Thobolo’s Camp. This is an ecotourism destination, and I appreciated both their humour and what they stand for.

We celebrated Anton’s birthday on the 25th with a beautiful African sunset and a delicious steak at the lodge.

Thobolo’s Camp:

Setting: If you are fortunate enough to get campsite A10, the shade and proximity to the waterhole would warrant an 8/10 score. However, most of the sites don’t have much protection from the baking sun, nor do they have much of view. So, on average, the score we would give is 6/10.

Amenities: Use of the lodge’s facilities and shared ablutions : 6.5/10.

Drawback: Homo Sapiens: our stay coincided with the Namibian school holidays. Enough said.

Travel tips:

If you cross into Botswana via Ngoma, make sure that you have:

1.Pula – there is nowhere either to exchange or withdraw money other than Kasane (way off-route) or Maun.

2.Petrol – there are no fuel stations either. This could limit your game viewing in Moremi significantly.

There are no shops except for the odd spaza shop, so stock up beforehand. No red meat may be taken over the border, however. We also had to relinquish fresh fruit and vegetables.